Frequently Asked Questions

What predators do I need to watch out for when it comes to ducks?

     Killed or missing ducks and duck nest predation are usually what generates these questions. First of all, ducks have many predators. Ducklings are particularly vulnerable, since their inability to fly makes them easy prey not only for predatory birds but also large fish and turtles. Ducks' nests are raided by land-based predators and brooding females may be caught unaware on the nest by mammals. A short list of predators that may cause you problems include, but are not limited to, the following: foxes, minks, skunks, raccoons, coyotes, weasels, bobcats, wild pigs, cats, dogs, snakes, turtles, fish and birds.

What are the basic requirements that must be met if ducks are to remain healthy?

     Ducks are raised under a wide variety of conditions. For most folks, this is done in a backyard coop with a few ducks. Ducks adapt well to a wide range of systems of care provided they receive essential basic care. Except for the early brooding stage, when ducklings require a higher temperature and special attention by the caretaker, the basic requirements of ducks are as follows:

 o   Protection from extremes in weather conditions and predators.

  o   A clean, dry sheltered area. Although ducks can spend most of their time outdoors, on ponds or in wet areas, they require a clean dry sheltered area where they can retreat, rest, clean and preen their feathers. This allows them to waterproof their plumage, which protects their skin from injury and helps keep their body warm.

 o   Clean water for drinking, i.e., water that is free of germs and toxins harmful to ducks. Water for swimming is not essential but can be beneficial in areas where temperatures are high.

 o   A diet that provides all of the duck's daily nutritional needs.

 o   Adequate light stimulation, especially for layers.

 o   Protection from disease

What do you need to know about hatching duck eggs?

     We have had several questions about hatching duck eggs, look below on recommendations. We do have duck eggs available for consumption and incubation.

Much of the information available on incubating and hatching chicken eggs can be applied to ducks, as long as the important differences between these two species are taken into account. Since duck eggs are larger than chicken eggs, setting trays must be designed to accommodate their larger size. Eggs are automatically turned while in the setter (usually hourly). Basic procedures and conditions for hatching duck eggs are as follows:

o   If the incubator is not already in operation, start the incubator and allow the temperature and humidity to stabilize a day or two before setting eggs. Set the temperature at 99.5°F and relative humidity at 55%. Set ventilation as recommended by the incubator manufacturer. Eggs must be turned, either automatically or by hand, a minimum of 4 times a day. Most automatic turning devices are set to change the position of the eggs hourly.

o   Select eggs to be set by carefully inspecting and candling them at the time they are put in setting trays. Do not set eggs that are cracked, double yoked, misshapen, oversized, undersized or dirty. For best results, set eggs within 1-3 days from the time they were laid. There is an average loss of about 3% hatchability for eggs stored 7 days before setting and about 10% loss for those stored 14 days. Always set eggs with the small end down, except in the case of small incubators that have no trays. If eggs have been stored in a cooler, take them out of the cooler the night before setting and allow them to warm to room temperature 

o   On the day of setting, put eggs in incubator, close the doors and allow the incubator to reach operating temperature. Check frequently to make sure the incubator is working properly the first day and continue checking thereafter at least four times a day.

o   At about seven days after setting, candle the eggs and remove any eggs that are infertile (clear) or have dead germ (cloudy).

o   At 25 days after setting, candle and remove eggs with dead embryos. At this time, the temperature of the hatcher should be set at 99°F and the humidity set at 65%. As the hatch progresses and eggs begin to pip, increase the humidity to 80% and increase ventilation openings by about 50%. As the hatch nears completion gradually lower the temperature and humidity so that by the end of the hatch the temperature is at 97°F and the humidity is at 70%. Vents should be opened to their maximum setting by the end of the hatch. Remove ducklings from the hatcher when 90-95% of them are dry.

 Natural Incubation

o   Duck eggs may be hatched naturally by placing them under a broody duck or even a broody chicken hen. Muscovy ducks are very good setters, capable of hatching 12-15 duck eggs. The nest box should be located in a clean dry shelter, bedded with suitable litter. Feed and water should be available for the broody duck and for the ducklings when they hatch.

Egg Storage

o   If eggs are stored for a while before they are set, they should be stored at a temperature and humidity level that will minimize deterioration of the egg. Whenever possible, store eggs at about 55°F and 75% of relative humidity. Store eggs small end down.

What about duck nutrition?

     Regardless of how ducks obtain their food, whether it be by scavenging or consuming a complete ration, the food consumed must contain all the nutrients, in an available form, that are needed for maintenance, growth and reproduction. Feeding practices will depend in part on the number of ducks raised. If only a few ducks are kept by a household and they have access to areas where they can forage, they may be able to survive, grow and lay eggs by consuming available food such as green plants, insects, snails, frogs and table scraps. Under such conditions, ducks will likely grow very slowly and produce a small number of eggs. If keepers of small home flocks want better growth and more eggs they will have to provide supplemental feed. At a minimum they will have to feed some grain. As the size of a home flock increases, it becomes more likely that the flock will not be able to get enough food by foraging and supplemental feeding will become necessary. If more than a few ducks are to be kept or if increased performance is desired, there are a number of choices of feeding practices: (1) If available and affordable, purchase nutritionally complete commercially prepared duck feeds. If duck rations are not available and chicken feeds are, they will serve as a satisfactory substitute. (2) If poultry feed concentrates, which when fed with grain constitute a nutritionally complete diet, are available at a reasonable price, this may be a good option.

Nutrient requirements of ducks

Ducks require the same nutrients as chickens, but in slightly different amounts and particularly in terms of the ratio of each nutrient to the energy concentration of the diet.

Protein

Ducks, like other poultry, do not actually require "protein" but the individual amino acids contained in dietary proteins. The proteins in the diet are broken down during digestion to amino acids which are absorbed and used by the duck to make its own body proteins, such as those in muscle and feathers.

Water

Plenty of clean drinking water should be available to ducks at least 8-12 hours per day. During periods when temperatures are above 90ºF, drinking water should be available in the evening until the temperature has dropped below 80°F or else made available all night. Ducks do not require water for swimming in order to grow and reproduce normally. However, providing some water for wading or swimming can be beneficial, especially in hot climates. Ducks can expel excess heat through their bill and feet when allowed contact with water that is appreciably below their body temperature 107°. Water temperatures of 50-70°F are ideal for ducks. 

How do I clip my duck’s wings?

Below is a great diagram on Corner Stone Farms site on how we clip the wings of our birds

Can you give me some facts about ducks?

     From ancient times domestic ducks have served as a source of food and income for people in many parts of the world. Ducks are a source of meat, eggs and down-feathers (for making bedding and warm jackets). Ducks are able to subsist and grow to maturity on relatively simple diets, based on locally available feedstuffs. Duck meat and duck eggs are good dietary sources of high quality protein, energy and several vitamins and minerals. When properly included as part of a well-balanced daily diet, duck meat and eggs can supply a substantial portion of the nutrients required by humans. Ducks may be raised in small or large flocks. A small flock of ducks may be kept by a household as a supplemental source of food or income. A small flock of ducks can be established at low cost. A higher investment is required to establish larger or commercial flocks, which require better buildings, equipment and feeds.

     Common Ducks:

     Most domestic ducks fall into this group. Common ducks are believed to have originated from the Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos). Some of the better known breeds of common ducks include the Pekin, Asylesbury, Rouen, Call, Indian Runner, Khaki Campbell, Cayuga, Albio, Maya, and Tsaiya. Different breeds and varieties of common ducks can interbreed and produce fertile offspring. Eggs from common ducks require about 28 days to hatch.

      Choosing the right Breed of Duck:

Choose a breed of duck that best suits your needs. This may be a native breed that is well adapted to the weather conditions of the area where you live or it may be a breed that performs better than local breeds, available from duck keepers in other areas or from a commercial breeder

Meat Type Breeds:

If you are mainly interested in meat and able to obtain the necessary feed or feed ingredients required, choose a meat-type breed like the Pekin. Pekin ducks grow rapidly, reaching approximately 90% of their adult weight at 7 weeks of age, when properly fed. It is not uncommon for commercially grown Pekin ducks to weight 7 lb. at 7 weeks of age. Their growth rate under less favorable conditions will depend upon the quality of the diet they are fed. But even under less optimum conditions, Pekins can do quite well. The meat from Pekin ducks is very tender and succulent and known worldwide for its delicious taste. Some meat-type breeds, such as the Aylesbury and Rouen and unimproved lines of Pekins as well, have become less popular in recent times due in part to the development of improved Commercial lines of Pekin or other white-feathered Pekin-like ducks.

Egg Type Breeds:

If eggs for human consumption are the product desired, choose a high egg producing breed of duck such as the Khaki Campbell, Tsaiya or Indian Runner. These breeds are capable of laying in excess of 230 and in some cases, over 300 eggs per year. These breeds are usually considerably smaller in body size than meat-type ducks. Although Pekin ducks are usually bred for their meat, some high egg producing commercial strains of Pekin or Pekin-like ducks have been developed.

Multi-purpose breeds:

Often ducks are kept as a source of both meat and eggs and for their feathers as well. A number of breeds such as the Pekin, Aylesbury, and Maya (China) can meet these requirements. Some compromise is necessary when a strain is selected for both meat and eggs. Generally ducks that reach heavy weights at market age are not the best egg layers, and ducks that are good egg producers, are smaller in body size. A dual purpose line is usually selected for moderate body size and satisfactory egg production. Local breeds are often good choices if both meat and eggs are needed.

What do duck eggs taste like?

   Duck eggs are similar in many ways to chicken eggs. Raw duck yolks are thick, rich and custardy. Many pastry chefs feel that because of that, the duck eggs are superior when making cream and custard fillings. They tend to be a bit higher in albumen and fat. This means that your baked goods will have a richer texture, stay moist longer and rise higher than you ever imagined. Duck eggs have a shell that is firm and thick. It can be a bit more challenging to crack than a chicken egg because of that healthy shell.

What is Bumblefoot?

Bumblefoot is a common, localized staphylococcus infection of the foot. Due to constant walking on hard, rough or sharp surfaces, birds can develop small wounds on the bottom of their feet. These wounds are very susceptible to infection by Staphylococcus aureus, bacteria.

Unless the duck is able to fight off the infection, it often leads to a large, swollen, bulbous growth on the bottom of their foot. Since a duck's foot is tender, walking on hard surfaces (concrete, packed dirt, gravel, wire floor cages) may result in the toe pads being bruised. Sharp objects (rocks, thorns, slivers) may also get embedded or cut into the foot. All fowl, especially turkeys, chickens, gamebirds and waterfowl, are susceptible to this infection.

Bumblefoot results from injury or abrasion to the lower surface of the foot, which allows for the introduction of staphylococcus bacteria. This infection is a chronic disease that if left untreated can result in a 50 percent mortality rate.

If bumblefoot is detected while the lesion is soft and pliable, chances for successful treatment are higher than if treatment is delayed until the lesion becomes rock hard. Early bumblefoot infections can be successfully treated with antibiotics, separating the affected bird from the flock and providing deep bedding to limit stress on the sore foot.

Administer the antibiotic according to label directions for the specified number of days. Staph bacteria can be transmitted to humans, so if you treat the bird, make sure to protect yourself by wearing gloves when handling the bird or the lesion. Wash hands, clothes and equipment after handling affected birds.

Draining the lesion promotes healing. Soak the foot in warm water and Epsom salts. When the scab has softened, remove it to expose the pus-filled cavity. Flush the cavity with hydrogen peroxide to clean out the pus and debris. Pack the cavity with antibiotic ointment, and then wrap the foot to keep the cavity clean.

Keep the treated bird separate from the rest of the flock on deep bedding, flush the cavity and re-wrap the foot at least every other day until completely healed. Pus and debris from the abscess are contagious to humans and other animals, so gather all contaminated materials for proper disposal.

To prevent bumblefoot, remove causes if possible to avoid future occurrence. Keep bedding clean, dry and deep to limit irritation to the foot. Check floors and other surfaces for rough, hard and sharp edges. Puncture wounds and scrapes can become infected with staph bacteria and lead to abscesses.